Posts
larvigne05
list of all input devices
Answer
Computer mouse
Trackball (or rollerball)
Joystick
Trackpoint (or Pointing stick)
Light pen
Freespace controller
Keyboard
Touchpad
Joystick
Gamepad (or joypad)
Power Pad
Analog stick
Yoke (aircraft)
Image scanner
3D scanner
Digital camera
Webcam
Microphone
Modem
Midi port devices
Source :
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Input_device
regards,
Philip T
Computer mouse
Trackball (or rollerball)
Joystick
Trackpoint (or Pointing stick)
Light pen
Freespace controller
Keyboard
Touchpad
Joystick
Gamepad (or joypad)
Power Pad
Analog stick
Yoke (aircraft)
Image scanner
3D scanner
Digital camera
Webcam
Microphone
Modem
Midi port devices
Source :
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Input_device
regards,
Philip T
What is a good camera for a beginning photographer?
mr.wanksal
I am a college student and am going to be moving to Australia for a while, and I am looking for a camera before I go. I have taken a few short photography lessons, so I know basically what I am doing. I am looking to spend between $100-$250
Answer
I started photography in 1964, have done my share of weddings and portraits, graduations, etc., including court evidence for landlord/tenant courts. Professional? I've lived off of photography, am semi-retired today.
When you buy a camera, consider that you're buying in to a lens system. Your camera's lens mount determines what lenses you can use, and that camera brand's lenses will be dependent on whether or not the camera brand changes its lens mount. Nikon has not changed its lens mount since 1959 and it is well known in the industry for great lenses with very good glass formulas. You won't have problems finding lenses in the future.
Best FILM camera for amateur, photography classes: Nikon N80 with the Nikkor 28-105mm f/3.5-5.6D lens (also a macro lens) or the Nikkor 35-105mm f/3.5-5.6D(macro) lens. This camera has many features that you will not outgrow anytime soon; it has spot meter, average/center-weighted metering and 3D matrix metering, can be used totally manually (you set the aperture, shutter speed) with auto-focus or without auto-focus, or aperture priority (you set the desired aperture, the camera sets the correct, corresponding shutter speed) or shutter priority (you set the desired shutter speed, the camera will set the correct, corresponding aperture) or totally automatic where the camera will set the aperture and shutter speed with auto-focus or if you wish, without the auto-focus. The camera is the best bang-for-your-dollar on this level, and it also has a built-in flash good up to about 5 feet. It is a sturdy, ergonomically built camera, will advance your film automatically and rewind the film as you take the last shot, and it sets the ISO automatically for you (although you can also override to "push" or "pull" film), it has on-command grid lines to help you maintain a level horizon when you do landscapes, seascapes and architectural photos. It is the poor man's "pro" camera. Get the instructions manual; there are many more features that I do not have the time or space to include here.
I still have two of these cameras even though I have my two trusty pro-level Nikon F5 cameras.
The lens is the most versatile lens around; you can use it as a wide angle lens (28-35mm), regular lens (45-55mm), as a portrait lens (80-90mm), as a short telephoto lens (90-105mm) and as a macro-lens (it converts to a macro lens by switching a small switch). The Nikkor 35-105mm f/3.5-5.6D (macro) lens is the older but equally good lens that is a few dollars cheaper. You might even want to include a Nikkor 50mm f/1.8D for low light situations; this little lens is easy to carry and will help you out in low light situations where you might otherwise have great difficulties or you might not get at all.
Once you have the film processed, you can either scan the images at home (if you have a scanner at home) or you can have a CD made by the lab that processes your film. You'll the have the film for future use, and not have to worry about archival issues, still not unsettled in the digital technology.
Point and shoot camera: check into the Canon S3-iS. It does not have interchangeable lens but it has many good features considering its price range.
Best digital SLR for amateur or photography classes: Nikon D50 with the kit lens, which I would recommend over the Canon S3-iS since there's not much difference in prices and there is so much more camera in the Nikon D50; or, the Nikon D70S with the kit lens; this camera is still going strong and people are still raving over its many good qualities. With these Nikon cameras, you'll have a camera that will retain a higher resale price than any other when you decide to upgrade to another camera, and the lenses will surely fit any other Nikon digital camera!
Check with www.keh.com and see what they have; if you don't see what you want, go back in 2 or 3 days and be ready to buy at once since their merchandise doesn't stay very long on their shelves.
If you truly wish to stay in photography, whether to make this your profession or for the sake of having a lifelong hobby (that is also very therapeutic), get a camera that you can grow with, and develop skills and let your natural talents grow. But the best you can afford if you're sure that you're going to be in photography a long time, but buy wisely and save money in the process! For now, buy good but used cameras in good shape and buy only from reputable places where you'll have a certain degree of security.
You must have realistic expectations in buying your camera and lens; $250 is NOT realistic. Your best bet is to get a good but used N80 at about $170 and get the Nikkor 35-105mm f/3.5-5.6D(macro) lens for about $140 or so, or maybe about $530 for a Nikon D50 with the kit lens. Do NOT even think that you'll be saving any kind of real money by getting a generic lens; you will get what you pay for! Don't fall into this trap as so many others have; get into good habits from the start. If you choose to go with a Canon camera, get Canon lenses, and if you go with Nikon, get Nikkor lenses... don't put cheap tires on your Rolls-Royce! Cheap lenses are cheap lenses; stay away from generics!
Good luck and best wishes.
I started photography in 1964, have done my share of weddings and portraits, graduations, etc., including court evidence for landlord/tenant courts. Professional? I've lived off of photography, am semi-retired today.
When you buy a camera, consider that you're buying in to a lens system. Your camera's lens mount determines what lenses you can use, and that camera brand's lenses will be dependent on whether or not the camera brand changes its lens mount. Nikon has not changed its lens mount since 1959 and it is well known in the industry for great lenses with very good glass formulas. You won't have problems finding lenses in the future.
Best FILM camera for amateur, photography classes: Nikon N80 with the Nikkor 28-105mm f/3.5-5.6D lens (also a macro lens) or the Nikkor 35-105mm f/3.5-5.6D(macro) lens. This camera has many features that you will not outgrow anytime soon; it has spot meter, average/center-weighted metering and 3D matrix metering, can be used totally manually (you set the aperture, shutter speed) with auto-focus or without auto-focus, or aperture priority (you set the desired aperture, the camera sets the correct, corresponding shutter speed) or shutter priority (you set the desired shutter speed, the camera will set the correct, corresponding aperture) or totally automatic where the camera will set the aperture and shutter speed with auto-focus or if you wish, without the auto-focus. The camera is the best bang-for-your-dollar on this level, and it also has a built-in flash good up to about 5 feet. It is a sturdy, ergonomically built camera, will advance your film automatically and rewind the film as you take the last shot, and it sets the ISO automatically for you (although you can also override to "push" or "pull" film), it has on-command grid lines to help you maintain a level horizon when you do landscapes, seascapes and architectural photos. It is the poor man's "pro" camera. Get the instructions manual; there are many more features that I do not have the time or space to include here.
I still have two of these cameras even though I have my two trusty pro-level Nikon F5 cameras.
The lens is the most versatile lens around; you can use it as a wide angle lens (28-35mm), regular lens (45-55mm), as a portrait lens (80-90mm), as a short telephoto lens (90-105mm) and as a macro-lens (it converts to a macro lens by switching a small switch). The Nikkor 35-105mm f/3.5-5.6D (macro) lens is the older but equally good lens that is a few dollars cheaper. You might even want to include a Nikkor 50mm f/1.8D for low light situations; this little lens is easy to carry and will help you out in low light situations where you might otherwise have great difficulties or you might not get at all.
Once you have the film processed, you can either scan the images at home (if you have a scanner at home) or you can have a CD made by the lab that processes your film. You'll the have the film for future use, and not have to worry about archival issues, still not unsettled in the digital technology.
Point and shoot camera: check into the Canon S3-iS. It does not have interchangeable lens but it has many good features considering its price range.
Best digital SLR for amateur or photography classes: Nikon D50 with the kit lens, which I would recommend over the Canon S3-iS since there's not much difference in prices and there is so much more camera in the Nikon D50; or, the Nikon D70S with the kit lens; this camera is still going strong and people are still raving over its many good qualities. With these Nikon cameras, you'll have a camera that will retain a higher resale price than any other when you decide to upgrade to another camera, and the lenses will surely fit any other Nikon digital camera!
Check with www.keh.com and see what they have; if you don't see what you want, go back in 2 or 3 days and be ready to buy at once since their merchandise doesn't stay very long on their shelves.
If you truly wish to stay in photography, whether to make this your profession or for the sake of having a lifelong hobby (that is also very therapeutic), get a camera that you can grow with, and develop skills and let your natural talents grow. But the best you can afford if you're sure that you're going to be in photography a long time, but buy wisely and save money in the process! For now, buy good but used cameras in good shape and buy only from reputable places where you'll have a certain degree of security.
You must have realistic expectations in buying your camera and lens; $250 is NOT realistic. Your best bet is to get a good but used N80 at about $170 and get the Nikkor 35-105mm f/3.5-5.6D(macro) lens for about $140 or so, or maybe about $530 for a Nikon D50 with the kit lens. Do NOT even think that you'll be saving any kind of real money by getting a generic lens; you will get what you pay for! Don't fall into this trap as so many others have; get into good habits from the start. If you choose to go with a Canon camera, get Canon lenses, and if you go with Nikon, get Nikkor lenses... don't put cheap tires on your Rolls-Royce! Cheap lenses are cheap lenses; stay away from generics!
Good luck and best wishes.
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Title Post: what types of input devices?
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Author: Yukie
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Author: Yukie
Thanks For Coming To My Blog
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