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Isabella
Hi, I recently got interested in making my own hand drawn 2-d animation and I have lots of questions. I am buying supplies tomorrow, Paper, scanner, peg board etc. But I'm not sure what type/size paper to buy. Or what sort of pencils I am to use on the paper. One of my biggest questions concerns the peg board. I've looked online and they are all very expensive! Is there any why I can make my own Or buy a less expensive one at a place Like Office Max, Staples, Michael etc?? Lots of details about the peg board or any tips on anything else will be appreciated!
Answer
Hello and welcome to the most time consuming, frustrating and rewarding form of artistic expression! Don't get distracted by all the different supplies - a poor workman blames his tools. The supplies don't matter a pair of dingos kidneys - it's what you DO with what you've got that makes it work.
But, before you go investing in a whole bunch of crap, do a little mental check with yourself - do you start projects and carry them ALL THE WAY THROUGH to the finish? Do you have the patience to sit still for several hours, doing the same task over and over again? And finally, do you have another source of income to support your 'habit' (live with parents, have a 'real job', etc.)?
Now - in reference to your questions regarding paper and peg boards. What you're trying to do is traditional 'analogue' animation. A craft in itself, this process removes most of the expensive digital equipment from start up costs. A short explanation about a 'peg board' - the pegs keep the papers in the exact alignment from one drawing to the next to ensure proper registration when all the drawings are played back. Because the purpose is only registration, anything that makes sure the paper is in line with all the other pages will work - I used two pieces of masking tape perpendicular to each other and butted the corner of the paper between them. A simple way to create a peg board is to take an old 3 ring binder and then uses punched pages. The paper has a bit of give when on the rings, but if you do that along with the tape process, you'll be just fine. But, you can ditch all that and just tap the pages together, if you want to just get started! That doesn't work for really long projects, but you shouldn't be doing anything more than 100 or 200 sheets at the beginning.
The thing you REALLY should buy as opposed to a peg board is a light table. This helps you see the drawings below the one you're currently working on. If you don't use a light table, you'll need to do everything with tracing paper.
The final step on your analog process does require digital intervention. Once you have all the drawings done, you need to put them all together so they can be seen as a video. You can scan them, or shoot them with a digital still camera. You can use a digital video camera, but most have a 3 to 6 second standard still frame length. That will require additional editing to remove during assembly.
So, you either scan or shoot your frames, and then you need to put them all in order, one after another. For this, you'll need a computer with some type of simple video editing software. Of course, this gets you into the crazy world of frame rates and frame sizes. As you start out, use 12 FPS and 720 x 480 for your frame size and you'll be fine. There are a million other options, which you'll learn about as you go.
Of course - if you don't have access to ANY digital devices, you can always ship your drawings off to a post production / CD duplication company and have them assemble it for you. But, for how much that costs, you can get a cheap laptop and do it yourself.
What I've told you here is the VERY VERY tippy top of the iceberg. There's so much more, a lifetime of information about 2D animation. Unfortunately, 2D is considered a 'dying art' - being replaced by 3D at every turn. So, of course I'm very excited that you're thinking about getting into it! There are a lot of great resources out there if you're looking to talk to people about your projects and ideas. If you're on Facebook, check out the groups '2D Animation' and 'Independent Animation'. A good blog to start following is 'Cartoon Brew' and the best resource for anything related to the field of animation is 'AWN: Animation World Network'.
Three books you need in your library if you decide to take this on: 1) The Illusion of Life 2) The Animators Survival Kit and 3) The Animation Book. The 'Drawn to Life' series is excellent, too.
But, regardless of everything I've said here - the FIRST step, once you finish reading this post, get a little pack of post it notes or a small notepad, a #2 pencil, and animate something. A bouncing ball, a creeping worm, a waving line, a blooming flower. Anything. Don't worry if anyone will see it, don't worry if it's good enough, don't worry how long it takes. Completely INDULGE yourself in the process, wallow in it, absorb it, explore it. What does the line look like one frame to the next? Can you make the movement really really slow? Really really fast? How much detail do you need from drawing to drawing? Does your back hurt when you're done, and what is better posture so you can sit for a really long time without discomfort? Did you find the experience enjoyable at all? You'll learn more from doing it than what anyone can tell you.
Good luck!
Hello and welcome to the most time consuming, frustrating and rewarding form of artistic expression! Don't get distracted by all the different supplies - a poor workman blames his tools. The supplies don't matter a pair of dingos kidneys - it's what you DO with what you've got that makes it work.
But, before you go investing in a whole bunch of crap, do a little mental check with yourself - do you start projects and carry them ALL THE WAY THROUGH to the finish? Do you have the patience to sit still for several hours, doing the same task over and over again? And finally, do you have another source of income to support your 'habit' (live with parents, have a 'real job', etc.)?
Now - in reference to your questions regarding paper and peg boards. What you're trying to do is traditional 'analogue' animation. A craft in itself, this process removes most of the expensive digital equipment from start up costs. A short explanation about a 'peg board' - the pegs keep the papers in the exact alignment from one drawing to the next to ensure proper registration when all the drawings are played back. Because the purpose is only registration, anything that makes sure the paper is in line with all the other pages will work - I used two pieces of masking tape perpendicular to each other and butted the corner of the paper between them. A simple way to create a peg board is to take an old 3 ring binder and then uses punched pages. The paper has a bit of give when on the rings, but if you do that along with the tape process, you'll be just fine. But, you can ditch all that and just tap the pages together, if you want to just get started! That doesn't work for really long projects, but you shouldn't be doing anything more than 100 or 200 sheets at the beginning.
The thing you REALLY should buy as opposed to a peg board is a light table. This helps you see the drawings below the one you're currently working on. If you don't use a light table, you'll need to do everything with tracing paper.
The final step on your analog process does require digital intervention. Once you have all the drawings done, you need to put them all together so they can be seen as a video. You can scan them, or shoot them with a digital still camera. You can use a digital video camera, but most have a 3 to 6 second standard still frame length. That will require additional editing to remove during assembly.
So, you either scan or shoot your frames, and then you need to put them all in order, one after another. For this, you'll need a computer with some type of simple video editing software. Of course, this gets you into the crazy world of frame rates and frame sizes. As you start out, use 12 FPS and 720 x 480 for your frame size and you'll be fine. There are a million other options, which you'll learn about as you go.
Of course - if you don't have access to ANY digital devices, you can always ship your drawings off to a post production / CD duplication company and have them assemble it for you. But, for how much that costs, you can get a cheap laptop and do it yourself.
What I've told you here is the VERY VERY tippy top of the iceberg. There's so much more, a lifetime of information about 2D animation. Unfortunately, 2D is considered a 'dying art' - being replaced by 3D at every turn. So, of course I'm very excited that you're thinking about getting into it! There are a lot of great resources out there if you're looking to talk to people about your projects and ideas. If you're on Facebook, check out the groups '2D Animation' and 'Independent Animation'. A good blog to start following is 'Cartoon Brew' and the best resource for anything related to the field of animation is 'AWN: Animation World Network'.
Three books you need in your library if you decide to take this on: 1) The Illusion of Life 2) The Animators Survival Kit and 3) The Animation Book. The 'Drawn to Life' series is excellent, too.
But, regardless of everything I've said here - the FIRST step, once you finish reading this post, get a little pack of post it notes or a small notepad, a #2 pencil, and animate something. A bouncing ball, a creeping worm, a waving line, a blooming flower. Anything. Don't worry if anyone will see it, don't worry if it's good enough, don't worry how long it takes. Completely INDULGE yourself in the process, wallow in it, absorb it, explore it. What does the line look like one frame to the next? Can you make the movement really really slow? Really really fast? How much detail do you need from drawing to drawing? Does your back hurt when you're done, and what is better posture so you can sit for a really long time without discomfort? Did you find the experience enjoyable at all? You'll learn more from doing it than what anyone can tell you.
Good luck!
I want to get more into digital art, need tips?
Dani
Okay so I've decided that I want to get more serious about digital art than the cool yet limited app I have on my Nintendo 3DS... where's the best place to start?
Does everyone use photoshop, or are there special programs made just for artwork? I'm assuming there are, and if so which one would you recommend? I'm willing to purchase it if it's really good.
What would be the best drawing tablet to purchase?
Any other useful tips for someone wanting to start getting more into digital art?
Thanks in advance :)
By digital art, since I know that covers a ride range of things, I do not mean editing others photos or my own. I want to create things from scratch. I have a full sketchbook of things like portraits and landscapes, so I would like to continue that only... digitally. :)
Answer
Here are some things that might help you get started with illustration and design:
Free:
- Gimp (download, similar to Photoshop)
- Inkscape (download, similar to Illustrator)
- Lunapic (online, similar to Photoshop)
- Pixlr (online, similar to Photoshop)
- Blender (download, similar to Maya, a 3d design program)
- Autodesk Sketchbook Express (download, similar to Corel painter)
------> Autodesk software is available for free for students at:
------> http://students.autodesk.com/?nd=download_center
Paid:
- Photoshop (Photoshop elements is a cheaper alternative, it comes free with some tablets)
- Illustrator
- Corel Painter (you can get a free version of painter with certain tablets)
- Sketchbook Pro 6 (similar to Corel Painter)
Best drawing tablet: wacom intuos4 small (for beginners, try ebay for the cheapest). I've used wacom bamboo fun before as a starter tablet I was 100% disappointed and would not suggest if even as a starter tablet. There is a newer version of the intros, intuos5 but the new additions are really not worth the upgrade cost. There is a big difference between the 3 and 4 though so I'd go with the 4. The 3 is heavier, old, and clunky.
I use a tablet for everything and I noticed if you use it for long periods of time you might have wrist pain from your lower hand hitting a desk as you use it. What I use to save my hand is a thin glove without fingers. They are really cheap and normally around $2-3 for a pair. Sometimes I put tissues on the part of the glove that hits a desk for extra padding so I can use a tablet for many hours without having a bruised hand.
It sounds like you are interested in digital illustration. You might like Photoshop or Corel painter best. Illustrator is more technical and can be hard to be more free with. It is a great program but not the best for detailed illustration like landscapes. It is better for making things like logos, clip art. Both photoshop and Corel are pretty expensive for full versions but there is a big difference between the cheaper versions and the full versions.
Of all of the programs listed, Photoshop is probably your best bet, the full version, not elements. I wouldn't waste money on elements, I'd use it if you have a free copy from buying a tablet but it isn't worth buying in my opinion. Try out some of the free programs above if you can't get the paid version of photoshop. The downloadable ones are best for long projects because you could lose your work if you work online. I'd suggest Gimp and Adobe Sketchbook Express to start with. If you cannot get a student license for a free version of sketchbook, amazon sells it as Sketchbook Pro 6 for around $20-40 depending on who you buy it from. It is a larger version of the program with more options that is relatively cheap. A great option to Corel Painter if you don't want quite so many options (it sells for about $70 on amazon).
Other things that might help:
- a scanner
- a camera/phone for pictures of 2d art
- tripod for taking good pictures with camera
- Staedtler pigment liner markers (these are very expensive, roughly $10-15 for 4 but they are very good quality and should last awhile, great for inking drawings for good scans digitally)
- Prismacolor Turquoise soft pencils (for 2d work to scan, best pencils I've used so far, I've tried a lot of brands)
- Prismacolor Turqoise medium pencils
- Staedtler White eraser (I use these all of the time, and they are great! Best eraser I've used so far.)
- Staedtler white eraser pencil toppers (these are hard to find but also great)
- Zebra drift 0.5mm lead mechanical pencils (larger mechanical pencil)
- Pentel 0.7 mm lead mechanical pencil (regular mechanical pencil, my favorite kind)
Generally for 2d supplies, Staedtler, Prismacolor, Pentel, and Zebra are really good. My mechanical pencils are all japanese, they seem to be the best quality. I actually got them from a college book store that sell supplies for 5 for $1. Generally they are about $2-4 a piece though. Staedtler's stuff if German and known for high quality drafting supplies. Prismacolor is made in Mexico (at least the Turquoise pencils, they are very expensive but I've used the cheaper ones and they just aren't the same. Drawing smudge a lot with the cheap ones and aren't as dark. The cheap brands look 'fuzzy' a lot. The best place for most of these is either local 3rd party supply stores, not chains, or ebay. Amazon is pretty high with shipping.
Have fun! :D
Here are some things that might help you get started with illustration and design:
Free:
- Gimp (download, similar to Photoshop)
- Inkscape (download, similar to Illustrator)
- Lunapic (online, similar to Photoshop)
- Pixlr (online, similar to Photoshop)
- Blender (download, similar to Maya, a 3d design program)
- Autodesk Sketchbook Express (download, similar to Corel painter)
------> Autodesk software is available for free for students at:
------> http://students.autodesk.com/?nd=download_center
Paid:
- Photoshop (Photoshop elements is a cheaper alternative, it comes free with some tablets)
- Illustrator
- Corel Painter (you can get a free version of painter with certain tablets)
- Sketchbook Pro 6 (similar to Corel Painter)
Best drawing tablet: wacom intuos4 small (for beginners, try ebay for the cheapest). I've used wacom bamboo fun before as a starter tablet I was 100% disappointed and would not suggest if even as a starter tablet. There is a newer version of the intros, intuos5 but the new additions are really not worth the upgrade cost. There is a big difference between the 3 and 4 though so I'd go with the 4. The 3 is heavier, old, and clunky.
I use a tablet for everything and I noticed if you use it for long periods of time you might have wrist pain from your lower hand hitting a desk as you use it. What I use to save my hand is a thin glove without fingers. They are really cheap and normally around $2-3 for a pair. Sometimes I put tissues on the part of the glove that hits a desk for extra padding so I can use a tablet for many hours without having a bruised hand.
It sounds like you are interested in digital illustration. You might like Photoshop or Corel painter best. Illustrator is more technical and can be hard to be more free with. It is a great program but not the best for detailed illustration like landscapes. It is better for making things like logos, clip art. Both photoshop and Corel are pretty expensive for full versions but there is a big difference between the cheaper versions and the full versions.
Of all of the programs listed, Photoshop is probably your best bet, the full version, not elements. I wouldn't waste money on elements, I'd use it if you have a free copy from buying a tablet but it isn't worth buying in my opinion. Try out some of the free programs above if you can't get the paid version of photoshop. The downloadable ones are best for long projects because you could lose your work if you work online. I'd suggest Gimp and Adobe Sketchbook Express to start with. If you cannot get a student license for a free version of sketchbook, amazon sells it as Sketchbook Pro 6 for around $20-40 depending on who you buy it from. It is a larger version of the program with more options that is relatively cheap. A great option to Corel Painter if you don't want quite so many options (it sells for about $70 on amazon).
Other things that might help:
- a scanner
- a camera/phone for pictures of 2d art
- tripod for taking good pictures with camera
- Staedtler pigment liner markers (these are very expensive, roughly $10-15 for 4 but they are very good quality and should last awhile, great for inking drawings for good scans digitally)
- Prismacolor Turquoise soft pencils (for 2d work to scan, best pencils I've used so far, I've tried a lot of brands)
- Prismacolor Turqoise medium pencils
- Staedtler White eraser (I use these all of the time, and they are great! Best eraser I've used so far.)
- Staedtler white eraser pencil toppers (these are hard to find but also great)
- Zebra drift 0.5mm lead mechanical pencils (larger mechanical pencil)
- Pentel 0.7 mm lead mechanical pencil (regular mechanical pencil, my favorite kind)
Generally for 2d supplies, Staedtler, Prismacolor, Pentel, and Zebra are really good. My mechanical pencils are all japanese, they seem to be the best quality. I actually got them from a college book store that sell supplies for 5 for $1. Generally they are about $2-4 a piece though. Staedtler's stuff if German and known for high quality drafting supplies. Prismacolor is made in Mexico (at least the Turquoise pencils, they are very expensive but I've used the cheaper ones and they just aren't the same. Drawing smudge a lot with the cheap ones and aren't as dark. The cheap brands look 'fuzzy' a lot. The best place for most of these is either local 3rd party supply stores, not chains, or ebay. Amazon is pretty high with shipping.
Have fun! :D
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Title Post: Hand drawn 2-d Animation?
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Author: Yukie
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Rating: 100% based on 99998 ratings. 5 user reviews.
Author: Yukie
Thanks For Coming To My Blog
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